Colombo

Colombo: Sri Lanka’s Metropolitan Center

Date Visited: April 2024

Why Visit?

Sri Linka is a hidden gem situated off the Southeast coast of India. It has been troubled by a decades-long civil war and recent economic and political episodes of upheaval causing cautious travelers to avoid the island altogether.  However, I visited during a relatively calm period and discovered a tropical wonderland.  Sri Lanka is a beguiling mixture of beautiful beaches, lush forests, cultural marvels, vibrant cuisine, and pleasant people.  Because Sri Lanka is a relatively small island a visitor can squeeze a lot of exploration into a short time. And after my week-long exploration, I have to say Sri Lanka is one of my favorites destinations ever.

Getting There

This is the hard part.  Sri Lanka is difficult to access from Europe or, especially, North America. It’s even a bit of a challenge from Southeast Asia, but with some work one can make a decent itinerary. From Jakarta, there are two options:  Sri Lankan Airlines operates a direct flight or you can fly Air Asia and transit in Kuala Lumpur.  The direct flight can cost as much as $600 round trip.  Air Asia is about $250 cheaper, but the comfort level is low and transit in Kuala Lumpur can be a bit of a hassle.  If you keep a vigilant watch on prices you can get a sale on Sri Lankan Airways for as little as $400, but that fare is never available during peak season (December through February).

Once you land in Colombo, the best method for traversing the country is by hiring a car.  I hired a car online (before departure) to take me from the Colombo Airport to Kandy at a reasonable price and ended up in a nice car with an excellent driver.  Once I checked into my hotel in Kandy, the hotel manager connected me with drivers for my local excursions and my ride back to Colombo, all at affordable prices in comfortable, air-conditioned vehicles.  One of the best things about a visit to Sri Lanka is that it is relatively easy to find nice lodging at a reasonable price.  Good restaurant meals can also be easily discovered for travelers who are on tight budgets.

Colombo

Colombo is the capital city. It doesn’t have the extraordinary wealth of culture and attractions that you might find in a capital like Bangkok, but I think it’s interesting enough for a two-to-three-day visit. And you won’t experience the level of traffic and air pollution that will exasperate you in places like Jakarta or other large Asian megalopolises.

Lotus Tower

This edifice is the tallest structure in Sri Lanka at 351 meters/1153 feet.  It sprouts out of the ground, literally appearing to be the stem and bud of a humungous lotus plant.  While it is a dramatic sight, I didn’t choose to go up into the tower, as I didn’t feel like spending the astronomical amount required for admission. I’ve reached the point in my life where I’ve been up so many towers, from The Leaning Tower of Pisa to Burj Khalifa, that I really don’t care anymore.

The Red Mosque

This distinctive mosque in central Colombo, designed in a colonial Indo-Saracenic style, might be one of the most visually appealing I’ve ever visited. Formally known as Jami-Ul-Alfar Mosque, this fanciful building is decorated in red and white stripes, like an architectural candy cane. Time your visit and do your research about opening times, as entry to the Red Mosque is often restricted for worship, restoration, or for “undisclosed reasons” which is why the interior was closed when I stopped by.

Colombo National Museum

This is Sri Lanka’s oldest museum, constructed by the British in 1877. It is a cornucopia of exhibits covering a multitude of topics.  The average tourist might find the place a bit dry, but I always find a visit to a country’s national museum illuminating and insightful—a window into what a nation deems valuable or important.

Galle Face Green

Galle Face Green is a kilometer long strip of land along the Indian Ocean coast in Central Colombo. It is like a long cricket field adjacent to a long strip of beach. I enjoyed hiking the length of the Green with its views of the ocean and the city, but beware there isn’t a single tree in Galle Face Green so you better be wearing your sunscreen. Luckily, there are few snack bars tucked into the beachfront, so cool drinks are available to help in your quest to prevent sunstroke. It’s such an iconic view of Colombo and the sea, it’s worth the effort and perspiration.

Gangaramaya Temple

This temple is actually a conglomerate of four structures and styles.  Built in the late 19th century, this eclectic collection of Buddhist buildings, museums, and artifacts is unusual in its seeming randomness, constructed as it was by different people during various times.  I particularly enjoyed the terrace of over 100 statues of Buddha overlooking the temple. Even if you are not attracted to religious architecture like I am, I think this particular temple is worth a visit.  And don’t forget to sneak over to the second building located on nearby Beira Lake.

Sri Kailawasanathan Kovil Temple

Sri Kailawasanathan Kovil Temple is located near the Lotus Tower. It is the quintessential Hindu temple with its layer cake of assorted gods and deities all portrayed in dazzling array of color.

I enjoyed visiting Colombo, but if you only have a few days to visit Sri Lanka, I would focus my visit on the culturally rich, and nature-filled region around the traditional city of Kandy.

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