Bali

Bali: Indonesia’s Vacation Wonderland

Dates Visited: October 2021, December 2022, March 2023

          Bali is definitely the most famous Indonesian destination. Many geographically-impaired Westerners think of Bali as its own separate country and don’t even realize it’s part of Indonesia. Bali still has much of its charm intact, but parts of it are “overenjoyed” by tourists. I haven’t been to much of the island, but the further away you can travel from the Denpasar/Kota/Nusa Dua/Ubud tourist hangouts, the more likely you’ll enjoy a non-touristic experience.

Getting There

          Bali is the island directly east of Java and is easily the most-accessible destination in Indonesia. Flights from all over the world land directly at Bali’s main airport in Denpasar. Flights are abundant from Jakarta too and relatively inexpensive, if you aren’t traveling during the peak seasons (such as New Years, Lebaran, etc).

Kota

          Let’s get the unpleasant part of my Bali guide out of the way first. Kota is a beach resort just north of the Denpasar Airport. It is jam-packed with beachfront hotels, restaurants, discos, bars, nightclubs, and all sorts of action. I stayed there during one of my visits because I thought my accompanying college-age son would enjoy the fun there. Kota could be a good location if partying and alcohol are your priorities, but I soon grew tired of people hassling me, trying to sell me drugs as I walked down the local streets. And as I strolled around Kota, I also felt I was actually in the northern-most province of Australia, rather than in an Indonesian location, so prominent was the “Down-Under Crowd.” Kota is the one location in Indonesia I would never visit again, and I would recommend checking a guidebook to find some other Bali location as a home base. I think the artsy city of Ubud is pleasant, though it’s inland and is far from the beach, though no one would ever describe Ubud as secluded—in some commercial areas of Ubud foreigners outnumber Indonesians 5 to 1. During one of my visits, I stayed in Nusa Dua—it’s also heavily touristed, but it has a slightly quieter, more-restrained vibe (and it’s near the beach too).

Amarterra Villa Nusa Dua
Nusa Dua Beach

Balquisse Heritage Hotel

Balquisse Room Interior
Balquisse Pool Area
Gladak Teak House I Stayed in, circa 1890

          Speaking of lodging, if your pockets are lined with money and you’re interested in a splurge, may I suggest the Balquisse in Jimbaran. I stayed there in 2021 during the pandemic when there were no international tourists allowed into Bali. So, instead of paying $300 a night to stay in a beautiful, circa 1890 teak gladak house, I was able to obtain my lodging for $80. This hotel is off the road in a lovely garden and the entire property is decorated with antiques. It’s as though you’ve been transported back into the early 20th Century. There are lovely swimming pools and a restaurant that serves outstanding meals. Glad I stayed at the Balquisse then, because it’s definitely out of my price range now. Check the Internet anyway, if you are planning to visit Bali, because outside of peak-season sometimes you can find some decent deals for the Balquisse, and other Balinese hotels, online.

Ubud

          Even if you aren’t staying in Ubud, it’s worth a visit as it is the home of hundreds of art galleries and craft shops. It has a trendy, hip vibe, nice restaurants, and lots of great shopping.

Bali Bird Park

Parrot in Bali Bird Park
Hornbills in Bali Bird Park

          This attraction is between Denpasar and Ubud and has the most extraordinary collection of tropical birds in the country. I’m not especially fond of birds, but literally every species in Indonesia is represented in this lovely tropical garden setting, so I enjoyed the experience regardless.

Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary

          I’m far less fond of monkeys than I am of birds, but the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary near Ubud is a very cool place. There are over 1200 long-tailed macaques who live in this sanctuary and the forest is swarming with them. Rangers feed them and tend to their needs, but they still engage with tourists as they walk through the lush forest with its massive 2- and 3-hundred-year-old trees. Balinese Hindus consider monkeys to be sacred creatures, so there are ancient temples dedicated to the money in the forest dating back to the 1400s. A very beautiful and distinctive place.

Uluwatu Temple

Uluwatu Temple Entrance
Uluwatu Cliffside
Monkey With Stolen Goods

          Near the southern tip of Bali is the stunning cliffside Uluwatu Temple perched 100 meters above the Indian Ocean. It’s one of the most dramatic places I’ve ever visited. Beware of the monkeys here: they are far less polite than the macaques at the Sanctuary. They are so daring, they are even known to steal the sunglasses off a person’s face, so hold onto all your possessions with an extremely firm grip. At sunset there’s also a show of traditional music and dance one should consider attending.

Bali Temples

Bali Temple Relief
Bali Temple Entrance
Bali Temple Decoration

          There are hundreds of amazing Hindu temples in Bali. I suggest referring to a guidebook or scanning the Internet to find a recommended one near where you’re staying. Before entering any temple, don’t forget to obtain a sarong from an attendant for a small fee to wear on temple grounds.

Tegenungan Falls

Tegenungan Falls Photospot
Tegenungan Falls

          I love chasing waterfalls, and Bali is a paradise for this activity. Tegenungan Falls is a crowded, touristed area, but the falls are appealing. Talk to your hotel concierge to arrange a special tour dedicated to chasing multiple waterfalls.

Garuda Wisnu Kencana Statue and Cultural Park

Garuda Wisnu Kencana Statue
The Performance in Garuda Wisnu Kencana
Garuda's Head Statue

          The Garuda Wisnu Kencana Statue is the largest statue in Indonesia and also the largest on the planet constructed of any Hindu entity. It’s 122 meters tall, larger than the Statue of Liberty. It depicts the God Wisnu, riding, on Garuda, the mythical bird that is a symbol of Indonesia. As an added bonus, the park (admission fee charged) where the statue is located has an interesting set of cultural exhibits. Every hour there’s a performance of traditional Balinese music and dance that’s well worth attending. If you don’t have a chance to visit the park, you can see the statue off in the distance from the international concourse of the Denpasar Airport or from one side of the plane as you are landing/taking off from the airport.

Tegalalang Rice Terrace

          Balinese rice terraces are intricately designed and sublime. Tegalalang, near Ubud, is the most famous. Besides viewing the sculptured rice fields, there are opportunities to ride giant swings that glide over the terraces and to take lunch at establishments overlooking Tegalalang.

Tegalalang Rice Terrace
The Giant Swings Over the Terraces

          Definitely visit Bali, Indonesia’s signature tourist destination, but if you have time, don’t overlook some of the other amazing islands in the archipelago.