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I traveled to Brunei because I am trying to visit every ASEAN nation while I am living in Jakarta, though I doubt I will ever go to Myanmar because of its repressive dictatorship. I also went to Brunei because I enjoy the discovery of visiting places I know absolutely nothing about before arrival. Finally, Brunei sounded appealing to me because of its nickname “Abode of Peace.” After residing in chaotic Jakarta for four years, any place that markets itself as peaceful is a destination I am excited to visit. And they are not kidding: Brunei is incredibly peaceful. Some people would even say it is boring. There aren’t any exciting tourist destinations, there isn’t any nightlife, and, in this strict Muslim nation, there’s not a drop of alcohol to be found. Yet, I enjoyed the picturesque maritime city with its rich history and serene lifestyle. I wouldn’t recommend a week here, but for those who want a place to chill out for the weekend, it’s a nice respite from the bustle of the contemporary world. And I don’t know if I’ve ever visited a place that seemed safer to me and that appeared completely free of nuisances like litter, graffiti, aggressive beggars, traffic jams, obnoxious vendors, and other urban unpleasantries. (Funny story: the cab driver who drove me from the airport to my hotel asked me why I was visiting Brunei because, as a lifelong resident, he thought his home country was extremely boring and he couldn’t imagine anything interesting for visitors to see there.)
It’s a bit of a challenge to get to Brunei and its capital city (only city) Bandar Seri Begawan. The national airlines, Royal Brunei, is quite expensive and services a limited number of cities. Thankfully, Air Asia has recently introduced a daily non-stop flight to Bandar Seri Begawan from Jakarta that is about $200 cheaper than the one on Royal Brunei. If your city doesn’t offer a non-stop flight via Air Asia, as an alternative you could take a flight to Kuala Lumpur and transit there for Brunei.
The best way to see the city of Bandar Seri Begawan (BSB) is via boat as most of the area is built on canals or on the river. The hotel I stayed in owns a dock and I booked one of their private 2-hour tours at the front desk for a nominal fee. Downtown BSB was about a two-mile boat ride from my hotel’s suburban neighborhood and water taxis are readily available for a $3 fee. My hotel also had a van you could hire to take you to most locations in BSB for under $10. A person might also want to consider hiring a tour to one of Brunei’s national parks, but they were shockingly expensive—I couldn’t find a tour for less than $200 (even more costly than my discounted airfare!). I have seen a few tropical rain forests and wildlife refuges in the region and was easily able to take a pass on this excessively costly activity.
Even though I omitted a national park tour, one has wildlife spotting activities on the standard 2-hour boat tour of BSB and vicinity. I spotted a few crocodiles in the river and along the shore, so swimming in the Brunei River is not a recommended activity. On my boat tour we passed by an area with proboscis monkeys, famous for their unusually long noses. Luckily my driver spotted a few which livened the boat tour considerably.
Kampong Ayer is the largest floating village in the world and has been in existence for several centuries. At one time, almost the entire population of Brunei lived exclusively in Kampong Ayer. While many of Brunei’s citizens now reside in the modern neighborhoods inland, Kampong Ayer still retains its nautical charm and still houses a large population. You can hire a guide for a detailed tour of the community or do as I did and enjoy a 15-minute cruise through the neighborhood during your 2-hour standard boat tour.
This modern building houses the regalia of the current Sultan. The museum provides a comprehensive history of the Sultan and his reign, which began in 1967. It’s a great place to learn about Brunei and to explore what appears to be every gift that the Sultan has ever been given in his lifetime. I mean EVERY gift.
Finished in 1958, this is the official mosque of the nation and is one of the grand mosques of Southeast Asia. Influenced by the Mughal architectural style of India, this was the first major building constructed in modern Brunei. It’s stately and impressive and dominates the BSB skyline. If you enjoy Islamic architecture as much as I do, you will find Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque well worth a visit.
This museum is about 8km from downtown BSB. It is not a popular museum as I was the only visitor during my visit. I found it very informative as it outlines the nation’s history through the lens of its maritime activities which were so crucial to the nation’s growth and development. Lots of boats and similar exhibits. Those uninterested in history and boats might want to skip the place.
Adjacent to the Brunei Maritime Museum is the Malay Technology Museum. The name is somewhat misleading as there is little of what most of us would call “technology.” I think a better name would be the Malay Anthropology and Culture Museum as the displays feature the day-to-day living of the region from its traditional crafts to the construction and design of its various styles of houses. Again, it’s a great way to learn more about Brunei, but I have a hard time imagining those addicted to video games and 3D virtual reality experiences enjoying this old-school museum. I think I am in the 20% (or less) minority who would find it worth a trip to these two adjacent museums, but the level of knowledge I gained of the culture was worth the trip for me.
