Menu
Banjarmasin: The Venice of the East
The medium-sized city of Banjarmasin is situated on the Southeastern coast of the island of Kalimantin (aka Borneo). Tourist pamphlets of the 1930s called Banjarmasin “The Venice of the East,” but do not be deceived. While Banjarmasin is located on the banks of the Martapura River and does have a network of canals, you shouldn’t expect anything resembling the grandeur of Venice. What you will find is a city reminiscent of an Indonesia you might have found in the 1980s: somewhat low-tech and almost devoid of tourists and foreigners. Unlike most Indonesian destinations, you will have difficulty finding people who are able to communicate in English, but don’t worry: Google Translate and its new audio feature can help you navigate any linguistic gridlock you might experience. What you will find in Banjarmasin is a city where you will get an authentic and traditional Indonesian experience, particularly its boat and river culture.
You shouldn’t have much trouble going online to find a non-stop flight from Jakarta to Banjarmasin. As of October 2024, round trips can be found for as low as $110 USD.
The highlight of a visit to Banjarmasin is a boat trip to the Lok Baintan Floating Market, which is an hour’s journey upstream from downtown. One of the reasons I chose the hotel that I stayed in was because they offered free boat trips to the Market, departing at 6 a.m. The journey up the Martapura is amazing with its glimpses of river life. When your boat arrives at the market location you are surrounded by dozens of merchants, almost exclusively women, in their traditional boats that resemble canoes. Fresh tropical fruit is the main product sold, but you can also purchase fabrics, souvenirs, and there are even a few boats where the proprietor might cook you some satay on their portable grill perched precariously inside their boat. It’s a memorable trip well-worth experiencing, but please be aware that the boats that transport you from the hotel can be quite cramped and crowded from a Westerner’s perspective—but replicating a Western experience isn’t why you are heading to Lok Baintan.
This mosque is one of the oldest in Indonesia, built in 1528 and renovated periodically since then. What makes this ancient mosque especially interesting is its adherence to local architectural style.
One of the fun things about visiting diverse locations in Indonesia is the opportunity to sample local culinary specialties. Soto Banjar is a chicken and vegetable soup served throughout Banjarmasin that is the city’s signature dish. It differs from many Indonesian foods in that it isn’t particularly spicy. The iconic Soto Bang Amat restaurant, situated on the banks of the Martapura River, is probably the best place to try the soto (soup) as well as Banjarmasin-style satay. The restaurant is in a covered outdoor structure on stilts along the riverbank and is adorned with traditional rustic decor. I also enjoyed a local band playing folk music while I was dining there.
The long-nosed proboscis is the mascot of Banjarmasin and its image is plastered all over the city. You can also take a boat trip departing from near Barito Bridge, to visit the island housing the proboscis sanctuary. Unfortunately, I took the trip on the day of a national holiday and when we arrived, we discovered the sanctuary was closed. Fortunately, it was early morning and the monkeys were expecting to have the sanctuary keepers arrive to feed them, so they came to the shore to greet us, expecting to get some food, when our boat passed near the dock. Though it wasn’t as close a view as I would have liked, I was grateful to catch a view of these rare monkeys which can only be found in the wild on the island of Kalimantan/Borneo.
