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Air travel is the quickest way to get to Semarang. There are numerous daily flights from Jakarta at a reasonable price.
Semarang is situated on the north coast of Java in the center of the island. I had no idea the place existed, but I visited there on the suggestion of my boss who said that it was one of his favorite places in Indonesia. And after visiting Semarang myself, I must say that I agree. It’s a pleasant city with ethnic diversity and plenty to see.
This colonial icon was built by the Dutch in 1907 and was the headquarters of the National Railway through World War II. The architectural details are exceptional, especially the dramatic stained-glass windows throughout the building. There are also exhibits on the history of the Indonesian Railroad and a few antique train cars on the grounds.
Semarang’s Old Town is well worth a visit. I stayed in a hotel nearby so that this neighborhood could serve as my base. The origin of the neighborhood dates to the 17th Century, with most of the buildings constructed during the 1800s. Kota Lama is undergoing a revival with most of the structures enjoying recent renovations. It’s in sparkling condition, especially when compared to Jakarta’s somewhat dilapidated counterpart. A few of the buildings have been repurposed as modern art galleries and there are several interesting restaurants in the neighborhood as well. My favorite place to eat was The Spiegel, a trendy bistro housed in a charming setting. I found Kota Lama to be especially pleasant for a stroll in the evening.
Adjacent to Kota Lama is the Batik Neighborhood. This neighborhood spans several square blocks housing dozens of batik galleries and small manufacturing houses, where you can learn how to make batik if you are so inclined. It’s a quaint neighborhood to wander through, even if you aren’t planning to buy an armload of Indonesian fabric creations.
Semarang has a significant ethnic Chinese population and a fairly large Chinatown worth exploring. The highlight of the neighborhood is the Sam Poo Kong Temple dedicated to the exploits of Zheng He, the great Chinese explorer and admiral who landed at Semarang in 1416. Zheng He was a Muslim and established a mosque on the temple site during his visit. The temple complex also contains a massive statue dedicated to the esteemed explorer. Some Muslim scholars credit Zheng He for being one of the key people who helped established Islam in the Indonesian archipelago. Very little of the ancient structure remains, with the current temple configuration dating to the major renovations of 2005. Despite its relative newness, it’s a beautiful place to spend a morning.
After spending half a day taking me to various temples, the driver I hired said, “Let me take you to a place I think you might like.” We drove for about 30 minutes into the hills above Semarang and arrived at the Buddhagaya Watagong, a Buddhist place of worship. The main two-story temple, the Dhammasala, is extremely modern, dating from the early part of this century. Despite its newness, its sleek architecture and glass ceiling are a nice contemporary take on classical Buddhist architecture.
For me, the most enjoyable element of the place was the Pagoda Avalokitesvara. It’s the tallest Pagoda in Indonesia, soaring to a height of 45 meters. I’m glad my driver was so astute and tuned in to my interests and likes, as this side trip to a place not found in the guidebooks turned out to be a memorable part of my journey.